Today is August 20, the big day of our overnight train ride. We are on the wait list for this train, which leaves Tundla (just outside Agra, where we are today) at 11:30 p.m. this evening. Because we have so many dead hours between our check out at the Sheritan here and the 11:30 train ride tonight, we've elected to be hedonists today.

Carolyn asked to sleep in and do our tour of the Red Fort at 1. I agreed, because I'm planning on getting an Indian massage (with lots of juicy oils) sometime late morning. An aunt just ran across the keyboard, but other than that, there aren't many bugs- certainly none different than home- around here that we have seen. We do wear sun block and bug block every day. Despite it all, I am getting freckles. Back in Fatehpur Sikri we asked why there were children's clothing scattered/dangling from one tree in the village. It was a place where parents went to wish freckles away for the child before reaching the age of five, we were told!!